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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.